![]() For best results, comb the ridges in one direction only.Ĥ. Spread your mortar with an appropriately sized notched trowel. Wipe the surface of the HardieBacker Cement Board clean with a damp sponge.Ģ. Now, you’re ready to add stone or tile to your walls. Fill all joints with mortar and embed with 2” wide, high-strength, alkali-resistant glass fiber tape and level. Set fastener heads flush with the surface without overdriving.ĥ. Keep fasteners ⅜” from board edges and 2” in from sheet corners.Ĥ. Fasten cement board with specified nails or screws, a maximum of 8” on center at all supports.ģ. Start installing your boards a quarter inch above the floor, tub, or shower board and caulk accordingly.Ģ. Here’s how to install your HardieBacker Cement Boards on walls:ġ. You may want to use a waterproof membrane, vapor barrier, or vapor-retarding membrane, especially if the local building code requires it. Now, you’re ready to install your HardieBacker Cement Boards. Check out our video on How to Cut HardieBacker Cement Board for detailed instructions. Next, cut your HardieBacker Cement Boards to size. Make sure the corners don’t meet at one point, which can create a weak point.Make sure the edges of the board parallel to framing are supported by a structural framing member.Arrange your boards in a staggered pattern.Choose whether you’ll install your cement boards vertically or horizontally.When determining the layout of your HardieBacker Cement Boards, consider the following: If you’re planning to use your HardieBacker Cement Board on tub and shower enclosures, first ensure that the framing is adequately reinforced at the corners. They must be straight, properly aligned, and spaced a maximum of 16” on center. You’ll need 2 x 4 wood studs or 20-gauge metal studs. To start, check that your framing is sound and complies with local building codes. Carbide-tipped scoring knife (recommended), utility knife, or shears.Appropriately sized notched trowel (based on the tile size).Corrosion-resistant roofing nails OR 1.25” minimum Backer-On screws.2” wide, high-strength, alkali-resistant glass fiber tape.Modified dry-set cement mortar (also known as latex or acrylic modified thinset).Here’s what you’ll need to install your HardieBacker® Cement Board: Protecting from water damage is the key to enjoying a finished kitchen or bathroom for decades to come. But a successful project relies just as much on the material you choose to install underneath your tile or stone, even if you won’t see it after completion. If you’re working on a tile project for the walls of a kitchen or bathroom, you’ve likely already selected a tile or stone slab. ![]()
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